Overview

***also see attached data sheet, at the bottom of the page


The Haze looks and feels like a standard lighting dimmer switch, but it can control services in the room (e.g lighting, curtains, music player etc), each service being represented by a colour. 

The Encoder is a simple non RGB-LED rotary encoder, with no other control components.

Haze


Hardware information

A Haze consists of a combined rotary digital encoder and switch, a diffuser, and a a small circuit board. As standard it is supplied mounted on a white plastic face plate to the British standard for single gang light switches. Each Haze is connected to a Zone Gateway using a single CAT-5 cable terminated at both ends with an RJ45 plug.

For the Encoder and Haze controls there are 2 options, either
  •  customer will supply blank faceplates and buttons for Hausmate to fit the encoder or Haze unit to, or
  •  Hausmate will supply the encoder and Haze PCB controls for the customer to fit to suitable faceplates themselves.

The faceplates and buttons can be purchased individually (buy blank faceplates and ‘spare’ buttons) or salvaged from dismantled conventional dimmer switches.


Sizes required:

  • Haze faceplates need a 12mm diameter hole in the middle of the faceplate
  • Encoder faceplates need a 7mm diameter hole in the middle of the faceplate


Hausmate recommends using a pillar drill with ‘Rotabroach’ 12mm cutter for drilling metal faceplates (drill 3.5mm pilot hole first). For plastic faceplates, a Rotabroach cutter or a flat wood drill bit which cuts the outside circumference of the hole first can be used e.g. Farnell part 1517084, Bosch part 2608595484

When drilling using a flat wood drill bit for Haze, firstly drill a pilot hole just smaller than the centre point of the drill bit. Note for Haze’s - Screwless faceplates need to have a rectangular hole in any ‘behind faceplate’ mounting plate so that the Haze’s PCB can still fit. Hole needs to be minimum 52 x 52 mm centered on the middle of the faceplate. The holes are best drilled using a pillar drill. 


Note 1: Hausmate will do this for you if the client has ordered this option.


The spacer ( the short section of clear plastic hose that goes between the back of the faceplates and the PCB ) must be chosen so that when the T-nut is done up, it clamps the Haze PCB to the faceplates, preventing the PCB to move easily. 

Thicker faceplates (e.g. plastic faceplates) require a thinner spacer.

Thinner faceplates (e.g metal faceplates) require a thicker spacer. 


If necessary, cut down a thicker spacer to the size required for your faceplate – use a sharp knife with care, onto a wooden surface that does not matter if it is scored by the knife. 


Encoders/Hazes can be assembled/disassembled using suitable ‘circlip pliers’ or fine/long/snipe nosed pliers in the 2 holes of the T-nut.


Connector pin-outs

Connector ZG encoders/RGB-LED/general I/O Connector AUX encoders/RGB-LED/general I/O
wire colour pin description wire colour pin description
white/orange 1 dig I/O 1, encoder chA white/orange 1 LED green, max 20mA to 5V
orange 2 dig I/O 2, encoder chB orange 2 LED red, max 30mA to 5V
white/green 3 0V, GND white/green 3
0V, GND
blue 4 dig I/O 3, encoder button 'PTM blue 4 LED blue, max 20mA to 5V
white/blue 5 +5V white/blue 5 +5V
green 6  dig I/O 4, PWM1, grn green 6  dig I/O 4, PWM1, grn
white/brown 7 dig I/O 5, PWM2, red  white/brown 7 dig I/O 5, PWM2, red 
brown 8 dig I/O 6, PWM3, blu brown 8 dig I/O 6, PWM3, blu


Note 2:  Encoder / Haze buttons sometimes don’t fit correctly due to the difference in metric and imperial sizes. The buttons can be attached temporarily by using Blu-tack inside the hole in the button for the encoder shaft. If an encoder/Haze does not ‘click’ when pressed then add a little more Blu-tack to space it off from the faceplate. For final fixing use Loctite 425 threadlock which is designed to work with plastics and metals – this will glue the button in place, but not so strongly that it can not be removed again. When removing a button take care not to snap the encoder where it enters the PCB as it has a much smaller diameter here (and is thus weaker).